There are many ways that we can describe skin. Some of the most frequently used terms to describe skin are normal, dry, oily, combination or sensitive.
You have normal skin if your skin feels comfortable and looks healthy. It does not feel too dry or oily – it feels “balanced”.
Dry skin typically produces less sebum than normal skin and thus lacks the lipid barrier the skin naturally needs to retain moisture. This skin feels tight, dry and may crack or flake.
Oily skin typically produces more sebum than normal skin. The result is a glossy sheen visible soon after washing your face and enlarged pores.
People with combination skin have oily parts and dry parts. Typically, the T zone (forehead, nose, chin) are oilier, and certain parts of their face e.g. cheeks may be normal or dry.
Sensitive or intolerant skin is skin that either is flushed all the time and/or easily reacts to specific ingredients in products like cleansers, moisturisers or even toners. This type of skin stings easily, is more likely to be dry and hyper-reactive and could flush easily.
1. What is Dehydrated Skin, What Causes It, and What Are the Common Signs to Identify It?
Dehydrated Skin is a condition where the skin lacks sufficient water content. This is different from dry skin, which is a skin type characterised by a lack of sebum (containing natural oils and lipids which help to keep skin hydrated). Dehydrated skin is a skin condition seen very frequently in dry skin types, but can occur in any skin type, including oily skin.
There are many reasons for Dehydrated Skin, including:
Environmental factors: Sun exposure, cold weather, and low humidity can strip moisture from the skin through increased Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL)
Lifestyle choices: Insufficient water intake, excessive caffeine or alcohol consumption, and an excessively salty diet can lead to overall bodily dehydration and thus dehydrated skin
Overly harsh skincare products: Overuse of exfoliants or cleansers that strip the skin’s natural moisture barrier can result in dehydrated skin.
Other factors including stress, lack of sleep, and underlying health conditions can contribute to dry skin
Underlying skin pathology: Pre-existing skin problems such as dry skin type, eczema, psoriasis or ichthyosis all feature dry, dehydrated skin.
Some common signs to identify Dehydrated Skin include:
Dull complexion: The skin appears lacklustre and less radiant
Tightness: A feeling of tightness, especially after cleansing
Fine lines: Fine lines and wrinkles particularly around the eyes and forehead become more noticeable
Itch: The skin may feel itchy and uncomfortable
Sensitivity: Increased sensitivity to ingredients in skincare or makeup products, often leading to irritation or redness
2. Why is Oily Skin Often Associated with Being Dehydrated, and What Are the Signs?
Oily skin can become dehydrated when the skin’s moisture barrier is compromised. For example, someone with oily skin may think that because their skin is oily, they have to use a “strong” cleanser or cleanse multiple times a day. When the cleanser contains ingredients like salicylic acid (beta hydroxy acids) or alpha hydroxy acids, it easily strips away the natural skin oils and lipid barrier which protects our skin, resulting in increased TEWL. Add to this, oily skin tends not to “feel” like it needs a moisturiser (because of the oily sensation), this simply leads to a vicious cycle of starving the skin of the good lipids and causing the sebum glands to overcompensate and produce even more sebum. This overproduction of oil can lead to oily yet dehydrated skin.
Signs of Dehydrated, Oily Skin:
Shiny yet tight skin: The skin appears oily, especially in the T-zone, but feels tight and uncomfortable
Flakiness: Despite the oiliness, there may be dry patches or flakiness
Enlarged pores: Dehydration can make pores appear more prominent as the skin tries to compensate by producing more oil
Acne and breakouts: Dehydrated oily skin is more prone to clogged pores which can lead to breakouts
3. Does Dehydrated Skin Cause Acne? Why or Why Not?
Dehydrated skin can contribute to acne. When the skin is dehydrated, it produces excess oil to compensate for the lack of moisture. This excess oil can mix with dead skin cells and clog pores, leading to acne. In addition, the skin barrier function of dehydrated skin is more easily compromised, making the skin more susceptible to inflammation and bacterial overgrowth, further contributing to acne.
4. Besides Causing Excess Sebum Production, What Are 3 Other Skin Issues That Dehydrated Skin Can Lead To?
Besides excess sebum production, dehydrated skin can lead to:
Premature Ageing: The lack of moisture reduces the skin’s elasticity and plumpness, making fine lines and wrinkles more visible
Skin Sensitivity: Dehydration weakens the skin’s protective barrier, making it more susceptible to environmental irritants and allergens. These irritants easily damage the skin resulting in redness, itching, and irritation
Dull Complexion and Uneven Texture: Dehydration can cause the skin to appear dull and lifeless due to its reduced ability to reflect light, leading to a tired and sallow appearance. The lack of moisture may also affect the skin’s ability to shed dead skin cells properly. As a result, dead skin cells can accumulate on the surface, leading to bumpy and uneven texture.
5. Is Dehydrated Skin Permanent?
No, dehydrated skin is not permanent. It is a condition that can be reversed with proper care, a better understanding of our skin and restoring skin’s balance to optimal levels. By addressing the underlying causes, such as keeping skin balanced, improving hydration, limiting exfoliation to once a day, strengthening our skin barrier and protecting the skin from environmental factors, dehydrated skin can be restored to a healthy, hydrated state.
6. Can You Stop Dehydrated Skin from Being Oily? 5 Ways to Combat This
Oily, dehydrated skin has to be dealt with by addressing both the dehydration and the oiliness. Here are some suggestions to help with it:
Avoid physical dehydration: Drink plenty of water throughout the day to maintain internal hydration. Limit over consumption of alcohol and caffeine which are diuretics and can contribute to dehydration.
Embrace safe and daily exfoliation into your routine – a mild daily exfoliation (by way of a lotion, cleanser, serum or moisturiser) helps to remove dead skin cells, allowing skin to breathe better and for new skin cells to surface. As we age, the rate of our cell renewal becomes sluggish and may need a little extra help. Avoid the use of harsh exfoliants which can cause more damage to the skin and unnecessary skin irritation.
Avoid Harsh Cleansers and Over-Cleansing: Use gentle cleansers that do not strip the skin of its natural moisture. Over-cleansing (more than 3-4 times a day without applying hydrating serums or moisturisers after) can exacerbate dehydration and lead to more oil production.
Incorporate a Hydrating Serum / Lightweight Moisturisers: Use a hydrating serum containing ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerol or ceramides to boost moisture levels and strengthen the skin barrier. Choose non-comedogenic, oil-free moisturisers that provide hydration without clogging pores. Gel-based moisturisers are often a good choice for oily, dehydrated skin.
Hydrate from within: There are in-clinic procedures that we can do, such as an injection of lightly or non-crosslinked Hyaluronic Acid. When this Hyaluronic Acid is injected underneath the surface of the skin, it is able to hold up to a thousand times its own weight in water, thus producing amazing benefits for dehydrated skin by hydrating it from within.
7. What Type of Skincare Should You Use for Dehydrated, Oily Skin?
For dehydrated, oily skin, it’s essential to choose skincare products that hydrate the skin without adding excess oil or clogging pores. The aim is to re-establish and restore skin balance. Hormonal or external factors are at play constantly and can threaten to disrupt skin’s balance. While we may not be able to control this from happening, we can decisively “read our skin”, understand what it needs at that moment and treat it accordingly.
- Cleansing – double cleanse well at night. This means using a milk, oil or emulsion cleanser and working on the skin for at least a minute before rinsing. Follow through with a second cleanser using either the same cleanser as the first or another. Choose a gentle cleanser that cleans the face without stripping the skin of its natural moisture. Look out for ingredients such as glycerin, ceramides or squalane which can seal in moisture while still thoroughly cleansing the skin. Added ingredients such as aloe vera, calendula and chamomile can also soothe and calm the skin after cleansing. If you cleanse right in the evening, you may not need a cleanser per se in the morning. Just rinse your face with some water and use a lotion like Pure Essence or Synbiotic Defense Mist to remove your nighttime exudates without disrupting skin’s natural moisture.
- Exfoliation – a daily dose of gentle exfoliation will do your skin more good than harm. Avoid harsh exfoliants as there is no need to go overboard and get the strongest of exfoliating agents. Stick to gentle exfoliation to prevent further stripping of the skin’s moisture. Ingredients such as AHAs (e.g. glycolic acid) and BHAs (e.g. salicylic acid), while useful in dull or acne prone skin, should be used in lower concentrations especially if the skin is particularly dehydrated. Physical exfoliation with scrubs or beads should be held off. For more sensitive skin, enzymes tend to cause less skin sensitivity than acids. Products like Floral Lotion No.2 or The Facial Low contain a blend of AHA, BHAs and PHAs to keep skin balanced; masks like Heritage Mask or The Enzymatic Gentle Peel and Collagen Phyto Retinol Resurfacing Mask are good alternatives.
- Restore balance – A balancing serum can be layered under your moisturiser to provide an extra boost of moisture. Look out for ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, silk amino acids, niacinamide, Centella Asiatica, Arnica Montana and panthenol are excellent for hydrating and soothing the skin while minimising excess oil production. Once skin is balanced, increase the amount of moisture with an intensely hydrating serum. Good options are serums like Future Beauty Drops 3 for balancing the skin first and subsequently, Beauty Drops 2 for intensely hydrating skin. Some serums like Beauty drops can be layered on 2-3 times if you prefer to skip the moisturiser.
- Moisture -”right” – Lightweight oil-free moisturisers (e.g. gel-based or water-based moisturisers) are ideal as they provide hydration without a greasy feel. Look out for ingredients like hyaluronic acid and glycerin, which attract moisture to the skin and help retain it without contributing to oiliness. Good options are Joelle Ciocco Thirst-for-Water Fluid or VENN Age Reversing All-In-One Concentrate or Ayuna Cream.
- Block up – Use a non-comedogenic, water-based broad-spectrum sunscreen (at least SPF 50 and preferably protects against visible blue light as well) that protects the skin without clogging pores. Lots of sunscreens nowadays are both light-feeling and effective, providing protection while being gentle on dehydrated, oily skin. Options are Beyond Sun Protection (non-tinted) or Velo (tinted)
- Masking – masks provide an extra boost to your skincare routine and tend to have a higher concentration of active ingredients. For hydration without causing breakouts, go with masks that are soothing and hydrating. Look out for ingredients like centella asiatica, panthenol, ceramides, Arnica Montana, Hydrolyzed Collagen etc. Good options for hydration are Soft Treatment Gel or Ultra Soothing Bio-Cellulose Mask or Phyto Mask No.2 or Dual Hydration Mask.
By incorporating these types of products and ingredients into your skincare routine, you can effectively manage dehydrated, oily skin, keeping it hydrated, balanced, and healthy.